gnu

The bees would still overcome the wasp, assuming it's a large hive. The wasp will have practical limitations on the amount of ammunition for the weapon (also the question of whether it can reload before getting swarmed) and the ceramic armour won't help against the bees massing together to form a ball of bees around the wasp and overheating it until it dies.

Edit: Apparently it depends on the type of bees as to whether they do the heat ball of death thing, so your mileage may vary.

As in plasterboard sheets? I don't see why not if hand loading, plenty of vans will fit a 2400x1200 sheet (my Transporter fitted a bunch of plywood with room to spare). Loading one with a forklift is harder due to no side access long enough to fit 2400mm but that's a problem shared with tub back utes. If however your plasterboard pallet is side accessible a van with barn doors (like you'd buy if pallets were a priority) will allow you load it in fine.

The old boat also has a motor, note how it's still moving in the photo while the only person in it is in the back holding a tiller (and appears to be facing forwards).

The thinking involved in driving a manual is very minimal once you get used to it, so I reckon any safety issues caused by that would be outweighed by a reduction in the unfortunately common situation of unintended acceleration crashes. You are lot less likely to drive through the nearest wall (or kids) if your instinctual reaction to moving when you should not be is to also go for the clutch and cut power instead of just pressing harder on the wrong pedal.

They have a clutch, but once you're moving it is possible to shift a manual transmission without using the clutch. What you need to do is first take off the load currently passing through the box (if power is being transmitted either direction it holds the engagement dogs in place), so if accelerating you quickly let off the throttle and if decelerating you quickly tap the throttle. This lets you move into neutral, once in neutral you increase or decrease the engine revs to near (ideally exactly) what they would be in the gear you want to shift into at your current road speed, and holding those revs you can then shift smoothly into the new gear.

It is not something I would recommend unless in a jam with synchromesh transmissions (e.g. regular cars, light trucks) as most people aren't going to get it exactly right every time and will just burn out the synchros. If you're unfamiliar with the term these are the parts of the transmission that let you shift from one gear to another in one motion without having to stop in neutral, let the clutch out, and increase/decrease the engine revs to suit your desired gear before clutching in and shifting into it.

Clutchless shifting can and does work well in non-synchro transmissions (e.g. motorbikes, many heavy trucks) once you get the knack, as these transmissions are both more forgiving of not being exactly rev matched and will provide a strong auditory signal if you don't get it close enough (i.e. you'll know if you got it right or not so won't half arse it). Many motorbikes now actually automate this process with devices known as quickshifters - named so because even when doing it by hand clutchless shifts on a bike are noticeably faster than using the clutch.

I find it a bit amusing that the sepia toning effectively colourised the image.

The sun would be the most obvious choice for such a reference point, though it'd be amusing to make it Greenwich and therefore make everyone deal with Earth's rotation and orbit if they want extremely precise calculations (though I expect there wouldn't really be a practical difference on that scale).

The design of the front forks also assists with stability - having some rake and trail means the front wheel has a tendency to self centre (particularly at speed).

Without modern metallurgy and and the associated industrial manufacturing base it's a lot harder to build a single mill to effectively use all the potential energy. A multiple mill setup like this allows you to extract most of the energy without reaching the limits of how much force you can put through machinery made of wood (the shafts and bearings are likely also wood, not just the wheel buckets), stone, and low strength metals.

Reading the news while having breakfast, though it's now on my laptop instead of the newspapers I started this habit with.

Learning on a transmission with >6 speeds is hard mode, they do take a little more thinking with the gear pattern than in a car. Synchro versions are not that hard if you're used to a regular manual but adding another thing to learn is not ideal when starting out. If it was a non-synchro variant then good luck getting someone to pick that up without a few solid hours of learning time.

If you were being taught by someone used to heavy trucks it makes sense why they didn't tell you to push the pedal right in - on many (all?) non synchro transmissions pushing the clutch all the way in brakes the input shaft and if you're moving you then have to resynchronise it with the gear speed in order to get into gear.

Note you don't actually have to push the clutch in all the way in a car either, all that really matters is getting it past the point where the clutch is fully disengaged. After all the clutch plate is either touching the flywheel to some degree or it's not touching, once it stops making contact pushing it further away doesn't make a difference. When first starting out though it's easier to just push the pedal all the way in - save thinking about finer details until you're comfortable with the basics.

It's the first floor above the ground level (or the first floor that you have to start calling a separate name, because if everything is single level you don't need to specify a floor).