1ko

joined 1 year ago
[–] 1ko 2 points 3 months ago

I moved the sketches for the loft so they won't intersect the main box. And it works that ways. It's strange, and I'm not sure it's the real reason it failed before.

[–] 1ko 3 points 3 months ago (2 children)

Thanks, I verified the sketches twice, there's no open wire. Fun fact, if I delete all the other objects, Freecad can happily make the loft...

8
submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by 1ko to c/[email protected]
 

I'm working on a tray drawer (for the curious, it's for the Tesla Model Y front center box). Using FreeCad 0.22 dev, the model will be 3D printed.

With your help I could made it how I wanted. However as I'm a beginner with FreeCad, there's a lot of ugly things. So I wanted to work on this new iteration and clean it up as much as possible, mainly to learn the software.

I have 1 major problem: I can't make a loft between my to sketches to create the separators. And I don't understand why.

Another point I do not fully understand is the construction lines. Should I use the External Reference or a Carbon Copy ? I don't really like the carbon copy as there's to much things displayed and sometimes I'm lost and don't see my original sketch anymore. For example, my bottom separator sketch must be linked somehow to my bottom box sketch, so if I change the position of the bottom of the box, the separator will adjust automatically.

Here's an image of how the model should look (my previous iteration) https://imgur.com/a/H8on1MZ

and here's he file I'm currently working on. license CC0 1.0 (you can do whatever you want with it) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WSgCSVhF1Io7ynhOXDkcO1hc8piln_mg/view?usp=sharing

[–] 1ko 1 points 3 months ago (3 children)

thanks, I'll try that. so far I only used the Part Design and Sketecher workbenches, I'll try the Draft.

[–] 1ko 1 points 3 months ago

3D printing, I plan on placing the left angled side (of the top left sketch) on the printing bed, this way I should avoid supports.

 

I'm new to freecad, so far I made it this way :

Sketch a rectangle for the top surface, pad it, add filets for the corners. Then select to bottom face, make a new sketch, another rectangle, then a datum plane 40mm below, sketch another smaller rectangle, and make a loft between the two to create the bottom of the tray.

Now for the hole I made a rectangle on the top face and made a pocket with an angle.

Downside of this, the thickness of the walls is not equal. Ideally I'd like a 1.5mm thickness everywhere. And I'm not really sure how to proceed to make the separators inside the tray.

What is the most efficient way to do it? thanks

[–] 1ko 2 points 5 months ago

I will try a AC filter if I can find one at a decent price.

[–] 1ko 1 points 5 months ago

at the price of losing my warranty unfortunately.

 

Earlier this year I bought a new Denon AVR-X1700H. I was happy with it, but after a month I noticed it produced a humm when I turn it on. It's only noticeable when the room is near silent, but it's really annoying when you notice it.

After investigation, it's coming from inside the device, I guess from a coil or transformer. I disconnected all sources and all speakers and it's only coming from inside the enclosure. It's silent when on standby mode (red led) and can be heard as soon as I turn it on (green led).

Spectrogram of the noise:

https://imgur.com/a/oaBrRhK first click is the first relay when the device is turned on, the 200Hz humm is here. Then comes the second relay. Then I turn the device off, both relays are clicking again and then the 200Hz humm is gone.

sound file:

http://sndup.net/ns947

I contacted my local dealer after sale service describing them in details the problem. they were not responsive. after a second email they accepted I send it back for service. (after telling me there would be fee is my claim is bogus). I quickly received the device back without any explanations about what was done. Only a List of replacement part serial numbers, they apparently replaced the main transformer.

Unfortunately, once plugged in, the problem was still the same. I contacted the service again, and I was told the noise they detected was "within the normal range" and "that this hum comes from the customer's network (ripple control pulse)."

None of my other sound devices are making this kind of noise at home. I tried to connect the AVR to another socket in another room, same result. I even tried to disconnect all the electrical devices in my flat (even the fridge, the dishwasher, the cooker and the internet box) and I still have the same result.

Could someone tell me, by the files I uploaded above, If I'm extremely sensitive or if there's indeed something wrong with my device ?

[–] 1ko 2 points 5 months ago (1 children)

I had a similar room configuration, I placed the surround speakers on the floor against the wall on each side of the sofa, pointing upward. They did the job to surprise me when watching horror movies when there's something making sound behind you.

[–] 1ko 1 points 8 months ago

After further reading about filters I ended as the same conclusion as you. I first thought the L2 was removing high frequencies, but it is in fact an LC filter to remove bass more efficiently.

[–] 1ko 1 points 8 months ago

Thanks, I will do that.

[–] 1ko 2 points 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) (2 children)

Will I get the high frequencies back if I remove L2?

[–] 1ko 2 points 8 months ago (2 children)

Thanks. I haven't told the whole story. In fact one of the tweeter is also dead. As I don't plan to invest for such an old piece of hardware (I'm not even sure they are particularly good to begin with), I had the idea to replace both tweeters with a pair of Visaton FR8JS who are cheap, have convincing specs and will fit perfectly in the hole of the previous tweeters. I did not find a match for super tweeters ( and I don't want to modify the cabinet). The crossover circuit is easily accessible (solderer on the other side of the connectors plate) so il would try to bypass the crossover.

[–] 1ko 1 points 8 months ago (4 children)

That's my question, how do I get rid of the crossover. In my limited understanding of electronics, the c3 capacitor will do nothing if terminals 11 and 12 are open. I'm not sure though.

 

I have this old pair of Technics SB-3130, they are three way speakers. Both of the super tweeters are dead (infinite resistance) and I’m not sure if this impact the range of frequency feeded to the tweeter. Given the schematic diagram, if I remove the super tweeter, should I modify something to have all the high frequencied on the tweeter?

 

I have this old pair of Technics SB-3130, they are three way speakers. Both of the super tweeters are dead (infinite resistance) and I'm not sure if this impact the range of frequency feeded to the tweeter. Given the schematic diagram, if I remove the super tweeter, should I modify something to have all the high frequencied to the tweeter?

 

At home my PCs have CIFS/SMB shared folders, it's handy and simple to use. However I can't find an Android app capable of browsing these shares.

There's Android Samba client and CIFS Document provider on F-droid but both require to know the exact IP and path, you can not just browse the network like on a PC.

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