this post was submitted on 23 Feb 2025
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[–] Soup 151 points 3 days ago (44 children)

Don’t forget that maintenance is super cheap AND most people, with only the most basic tools, can do the work in their living room or even just on a sidewalk. And if I don’t get it right and the brakes don’t work perfectly I probably won’t fuckin’ die.

Hi, car owner here. I do all the work myself and it requires a fair bit of knowledge, expensive tools, space, and a childhood where I was never told I couldn’t do that work if I was thoughtful about it. That’s a high fuckin’ bar and requires a whole lot of privilege-oh there it is, too many people with privilege like to shit on those without and most of North America has dogshit for public transit or bike infrastructure and the “freedom of movement” with a car is all there but heavily artificial. Thanks auto industry and their lobbyists.

[–] [email protected] 52 points 3 days ago (27 children)

I do my own bicycle and auto repair, and the bicycle is way easier. Maintenance is:

  • clean chain every so often (500 miles or start of the season) - get a chain cleaner tool thing ($10-20) and 50/50 Simple Green ($10 will last many years) and water, and then rinse, dry, and lube ($10 lasts years) - total process, 10 min?
  • replace chain - $20 or so, plus a tool for $10 or so; do every 2k miles or so
  • replace brake pads - $10-20
  • tires ($50 for a fancy fire) and tubes ($10) - replace tires when bald, tubes when flat (or patch them), and get some tire levers ($5-10) to make it easier

For tools, you need a wrench set, and probably only like 2-3 sizes.

My yearly maintenance costs for all of our bikes (1 adult, two kids) combined is about $50. If that. You could also go to your local bike shop instead for about double that.

[–] Betty_Boopie 6 points 3 days ago (3 children)

A quick tip on bike chains; if you are using lubricant you should never use heavy degreaser on the chain. The factory oil is the best lubricant and normal lubes don't penetrate between links enough.

However, if you are going to degrease you chains, you should use paraffin wax instead of lube. I have an 11 speed chain with 3000+ miles and it's only showing around 1% stretch. I don't even use fancy bike specific wax, just food grade gulf wax. Another plus is the whole drive train is dry; doesn't get your hands dirty if you need to remove a wheel, cassette, or derailleur.

Admittedly waxing the chain is a pain in the ass, but some of my chains are like $70 a pop so getting as much life from them is more important.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago (1 children)

I literally lubbed my bike chain with olive oil once in a while for a couple of years whilst using it almost daily to commute to work.

One can get away with A LOT when it comes to bicycles.

[–] Betty_Boopie 1 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (1 children)

I mean oil is oil, some are better as lubricants but all of them are going to reduce friction somewhat. When I rode fixies there were all sorts of weird home solutions being used in my group, but it didn't really matter because those chains are bomb proof.

I can't say for certain but if you tried the olive oil trick in a modern 10/11/12 speed drivetrain it would not last long. Not really because of an increase in friction but all of the dirt olive/vegetable/mineral oil attract. Lubricant is much thinner and doesn't 'hold' dirt to the same degree, especially inside the roller links.

Wax improves the lifespan not by dramatically reducing friction, but by making dirt ingress virtually zero. The actual power gains are maybe a few watts, and that's if you use special wax additives to further reduce friction.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Well, my bicycles have always been 2nd hand (or 3rd, 4th or 5th) or very cheap brand new ones because something I was going to leave tied to a post in the middle of the street whilst at work or shopping isn't going to be something that when it eventually gets stolen it would really hurt my wallet (a Bicycle Philosophy I learned whilst living in The Netherlands) - so, run-of-the-mill bicycles with run-of-the-mill parts which I just regularly used, treated with no special care and just did some basic maintenance on.

They all lasted years being used and abused like that, all up until each was stolen (I kid you not!), except the last one which hasn't been stolen yet.

So my point is that for one's everyday cheap bicycle that one doesn't really have any special emotional attachment to, olive oil on the chain is fine if one can't be arsed to buy the proper materials ;)

[–] Betty_Boopie 2 points 1 day ago

My point was never that waxing chains is the perfect end-all solution. I originally replied to a person that said they degreased their chain and only got about 2-3k miles before needing to replace it. From my experience that's due to stripping away the factory oil, and if you are degreasing anyways you are halfway to just waxing the chain.

If you want something to be dead set reliable modern group sets aren't going to be your friend, no matter what you are using on the chain. A single speed chain with geared hub is going to be more reliable than pretty much anything else on the bike.

Waxing has real benefits but it's not always worth it depending on where and how you ride. For instance, the dirt in my area is extremely dusty and destroyed my lubed MTB chain in about 2k miles. Waxing was a massive improvement and has already saved me from replacing $300 worth of chain and cassette.

It's your bike though, and different strokes work for different folks. I fight against cars, not fellow bikers.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 3 days ago (2 children)

Wax can flake off leaving that space unprotected. You have to check it more regularly than a lubed chain and dry it off after rain. It's not uncommon for a waxed chain to rust. But a big pro is cleanness of the chain and you won't get greasy hands.

Personally I keep using (eco-friendly) lube. Yes the chain gets dirty fast but I don't care. :D

[–] [email protected] 3 points 3 days ago

Or just go for a belt instead of a chain and never worry about that again

[–] Betty_Boopie 3 points 3 days ago (1 children)

The roller links are what you want lubricated and protected, and wax stays in those places much better than liquid lubes. While some chunks will flake off there is a thin layer left behind, I ride near the ocean pretty frequently and had worse rust problems when I was using lube. Ofc whatever works for you is the best practice but wax has been very easy for me. I track my rides, after about 150 miles I re-wax the chain. I've never found that I have to check it more often, but I also ride steel frames so I don't ride in the rain anyways.

[–] [email protected] 7 points 3 days ago (1 children)

I don’t ride in the rain

That's probably the difference between us. I ride all-year all-weather.

[–] Betty_Boopie 2 points 3 days ago

Also shows a big difference in location between us. I only have like 2 weeks out of the year that I have to break out the indoor rollers because of rain.

Hope you stay safe though, I wish everyone could have the benefit of coastal desert weather.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 3 days ago (1 children)

I have an 11 speed chain with 3000+ miles and it’s only showing around 1% stretch.

Wow, that's a solid chain. I usually need to replace mine around 2000-3000, but my chains are like $20-30, and I don't treat them very well (I stay on high gears on short climbs a bit too long).

I haven't bothered with wax, maybe I should. I just do a decent job lubing everything a few times per year. I degrease (chain only, I'm careful around the derailleur and hub), rinse thoroughly, dry thoroughly, and then lube and wipe 2x. I don't get any squeaks and it rides smoother after a cleaning, so I think I'm doing a decent job.

But I've heard wax is more of a one and done thing. Maybe I'll try it the next time I replace my chain.

[–] Betty_Boopie 2 points 3 days ago

Oh I'm sure you're doing a decent job and wax isn't a perfect solution for everyone. I'm just saying that one of the reasons you may only get 2k miles out of a chain is the degreaser takes away the factory oil. When I was on lube I was getting about 1% stretch per 1k miles, but it also depends a lot on the drivetrain and what kind of riding you do.

I would definitely consider wax though, especially if you move up into 10, 11, or 12 speed drivetrains. Everything is so damn expensive on them that wax is well worth the extra work, not just the chain but my cassettes look almost new still.

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